Words by Aude Camus
There’s something about Italian food on a weekend that just makes sense. Maybe it’s the generosity. Maybe it’s the carbs. Maybe it’s the built-in permission to linger.
When I heard that Trattoria Felino in Wan Chai had launched a new weekend brunch, I was curious — but cautious. Unlimited starters can sometimes feel like a culinary ambush. Plates landing all at once. Table overcrowded. You barely finish one bite before the next dish is fighting for elbow room.
Thankfully, that’s not what happens here.
From the moment we sat down, the rhythm felt… right. Gentle. Considered. Starters arrived gradually, allowing us to actually taste, talk, sip, repeat. Because it’s the weekend. And brunch, if done properly, should feel like la dolce vita not a speed test.
Starting from HK$598 (with free-flow mocktails) or HK$898 (with free-flow Champagne, wine and Aperol Spritz), the format is simple: unlimited starters to share, one main per guest, and one dolci each. Generous, yes. Chaotic, no.
Starters worth lingering over
There’s something about Italian food on a weekend that just makes sense. Maybe it’s the generosity. Maybe it’s the carbs. Maybe it’s the built-in permission to linger.
When I heard that Trattoria Felino in Wan Chai had launched a new weekend brunch, I was curious — but cautious. Unlimited starters can sometimes feel like a culinary ambush. Plates landing all at once. Table overcrowded. You barely finish one bite before the next dish is fighting for elbow room.
Thankfully, that’s not what happens here.
From the moment we sat down, the rhythm felt… right. Gentle. Considered. Starters arrived gradually, allowing us to actually taste, talk, sip, repeat. Because it’s the weekend. And brunch, if done properly, should feel like la dolce vita not a speed test.
Starting from HK$598 (with free-flow mocktails) or HK$898 (with free-flow Champagne, wine and Aperol Spritz), the format is simple: unlimited starters to share, one main per guest, and one dolci each. Generous, yes. Chaotic, no.
Starters worth lingering over
The parade of antipasti moves from fresh and bright to comforting and deeply savoury.
The carbonara egg is one of the restaurant’s signatures — and I have to say something here. If a dish is your signature, it should be included in the brunch. Full stop. I’m slightly allergic to the “+HK$XX for our signature” tactic. That’s the hill I’m ready to die on. So yes, I was very happy to see it proudly part of the menu.
The classic meatballs in tomato ragù were an instant win — especially with my five-and-a-half-year-old at the table. They’re homemade, deeply comforting, and exactly what you want from a trattoria. And since we’re on the topic: no, this brunch doesn’t advertise itself as “kid-friendly.” But I firmly believe most places can be if your child is old enough to (mostly) behave. Between the sharing starters, pasta mains, banquette seating and genuinely warm staff, it worked perfectly for us. We were the only table with a child (well actually two, but the little one is still on milk) and it was absolutely fine.
Other highlights? The minestra with clams, beans and ’nduja brought warmth and depth. The fried calamari were crisp and light. And I loved the balance between lighter plates like hamachi crudo and the more indulgent ones.
Mains that make sense
Each guest chooses one main, and again — I appreciate that proper favourites are included.
The tagliatelle with saffron beef ragù (another signature) is rich, comforting and exactly what you’d expect from a southern Italian kitchen done properly. No shortcuts. No stinginess.
If you ask me, though, the spaghetti with sea urchin, garlic oil and chilli (+HK$168) is absolutely worth the supplement. Yes, some add-ons make sense when premium ingredients are involved, and uni definitely qualifies. Briny, silky, just the right amount of heat.
That said, I also have a soft spot for the included scialatielli with zucchini, pecorino and basil oil — simple, fresh, and proof that not everything needs to be dramatic to be good.
The carbonara egg is one of the restaurant’s signatures — and I have to say something here. If a dish is your signature, it should be included in the brunch. Full stop. I’m slightly allergic to the “+HK$XX for our signature” tactic. That’s the hill I’m ready to die on. So yes, I was very happy to see it proudly part of the menu.
The classic meatballs in tomato ragù were an instant win — especially with my five-and-a-half-year-old at the table. They’re homemade, deeply comforting, and exactly what you want from a trattoria. And since we’re on the topic: no, this brunch doesn’t advertise itself as “kid-friendly.” But I firmly believe most places can be if your child is old enough to (mostly) behave. Between the sharing starters, pasta mains, banquette seating and genuinely warm staff, it worked perfectly for us. We were the only table with a child (well actually two, but the little one is still on milk) and it was absolutely fine.
Other highlights? The minestra with clams, beans and ’nduja brought warmth and depth. The fried calamari were crisp and light. And I loved the balance between lighter plates like hamachi crudo and the more indulgent ones.
Mains that make sense
Each guest chooses one main, and again — I appreciate that proper favourites are included.
The tagliatelle with saffron beef ragù (another signature) is rich, comforting and exactly what you’d expect from a southern Italian kitchen done properly. No shortcuts. No stinginess.
If you ask me, though, the spaghetti with sea urchin, garlic oil and chilli (+HK$168) is absolutely worth the supplement. Yes, some add-ons make sense when premium ingredients are involved, and uni definitely qualifies. Briny, silky, just the right amount of heat.
That said, I also have a soft spot for the included scialatielli with zucchini, pecorino and basil oil — simple, fresh, and proof that not everything needs to be dramatic to be good.
And while we didn’t order it, I spotted the brunch-exclusive Veal Milanese “orecchia d’elefante” (+HK$198 for two) on the next table. Crisp, golden, impressively large. It looked like something you’d order with friends, a bottle of wine, and zero plans for the afternoon.
A proper trattoria mood
A proper trattoria mood
The atmosphere is exactly what you want from a trattoria: casual, warm, slightly buzzy but never overwhelming. The kind of place where conversation flows easily and no one rushes you out the door.
The pacing plays a huge role in that. Unlimited doesn’t mean frantic. It means relaxed abundance.
Ending on a sweet note
Desserts are served in individual portions — smart, generous enough without tipping into excess.
I’ll confess something: I’m not a tiramisu person. I know. I have no defence. Instead, I went for the Neapolitan sfogliatelle with hazelnut sauce — crisp, addictive — and happily stole spoonfuls of an affogato with vanilla gelato and moka espresso across the table. Simple, satisfying, exactly what brunch dessert should be.
https://www.trattoriafelino.com
1-7 Ship Street, Wan Chai
This article is based on a weekend brunch hosted by Trattoria Felino. No money has been paid to publish this review, which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.
The pacing plays a huge role in that. Unlimited doesn’t mean frantic. It means relaxed abundance.
Ending on a sweet note
Desserts are served in individual portions — smart, generous enough without tipping into excess.
I’ll confess something: I’m not a tiramisu person. I know. I have no defence. Instead, I went for the Neapolitan sfogliatelle with hazelnut sauce — crisp, addictive — and happily stole spoonfuls of an affogato with vanilla gelato and moka espresso across the table. Simple, satisfying, exactly what brunch dessert should be.
https://www.trattoriafelino.com
1-7 Ship Street, Wan Chai
This article is based on a weekend brunch hosted by Trattoria Felino. No money has been paid to publish this review, which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.
