Mandarin Grill + Bar enters a new chapter — with Chef Junior Nadje at the helm

Words by Aude Camus
 
Some dining rooms don’t need reinvention — just the right person to gently guide them into their next chapter. Mandarin Grill + Bar has always been one of those places for me: timeless, reassuring, quietly elegant. The kind of restaurant where the waiters still wear crisp white jackets, where service feels gracious rather than performative, and where the atmosphere instantly slows you down.
 
So when I was invited to experience the first menu by Chef Junior Nadje — newly appointed Chef de Cuisine — I was curious. Not for a dramatic overhaul, but for the subtle shifts. The quiet signals of what’s to come.

Trained in some of Europe’s most respected Michelin-starred kitchens — from Alléno Paris to La Mère Brazier in Lyon, La Chèvre d’Or in Èze and Blue Bay in Monte Carlo — Chef Nadje brings a distinctly French sense of precision and balance, but without stiffness. His cooking speaks softly, confidently, and with heart.
 
The four-course Discovery Menu I was treated to is very much a preview rather than a final statement. The restaurant will close temporarily in February 2026 for renovation, reopening in Q2 with a refreshed concept — and Chef Nadje is still in the process of discovering Hong Kong, its markets, its produce, its rhythms. That sense of exploration is likely to keep things interesting. 
 
 
Fire, smoke and restraint

 
At the heart of Chef Nadje’s vision is the grill — not as a showy centrepiece, but as a tool for depth, texture and restraint. His dishes lean into smoke and fire, yet always feel balanced, clean and surprisingly light.
 

The standout for me — and without hesitation — was the grilled seasonal vegetable platter, served as astarter. A plate that was as visually striking as it was satisfying, it showcased more than twenty different vegetables, each prepared differently: grilled, roasted, charred, softened, crisped. The textures alone were a delight. What tied everything together was a Champagne sauce that brought just the right acidic lift, cutting through the smokiness and making each bite feel precise rather than heavy. It’s rare for a vegetable dish to be this memorable — and this was, without question, the highlight of the meal for me.
 

The grilled red mullet followed, cooked beautifully and served with a shiso purée and smoked mandarin confit. Delicate yet expressive, it played with freshness and gentle bitterness, the citrus adding brightness without overpowering the fish.
 
Then came the grilled chicken, marinated with tarragon and served with salsify, potato and a classic sauce suprême. The meat was exceptionally tender, the flavours comforting and familiar — a nod to French tradition, handled with restraint and confidence.
 
 
A room that knows who it is

Part of what makes Mandarin Grill + Bar special is its refusal to chase trends. The room remains timeless — plush, calm, composed — with service that feels deeply ingrained rather than rehearsed. The white jackets, the unhurried pacing, the sense that you’re dining somewhere that understands longevity. I’m a sucker for this kind of elegance, and I’m looking forward to seeing it refreshed in a way that respects its legacy rather than rebrand it.
 
What struck me most is that Chef Nadje isn’t here to rewrite the Grill’s story — he’s here to evolve it. This menu feels like a conversation between past and future, between tradition and curiosity. And for guests dining now, there’s something special about tasting a restaurant in motion, before the next chapter is revealed. If this Discovery Menu is any indication, the next era will be thoughtful, refined and quietly confident — exactly as it should be.

 
 

 
This article is based on a media dinner hosted by Mandarin Grill + Bar. No money has been paid to publish this review, which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.