JIJA by Vicky Lau: Yunnan flavours, reimagined — and my first taste of them

Words by Aude Camus
 
Last week, I checked into the newly opened JIJA by Vicky Lau for my final media tasting of the year — and what an exquisite way to close a year that, while full of great meals, somehow lacked the thrill of truly exciting new openings in Hong Kong. I’ll be honest: this was my first Yunnan restaurant. I walked into JIJA without really knowing what to expect, beyond trusting that when Vicky Lau puts her name on something, there’s intention behind every flavour. But Yunnan? I only knew it as a land of mountains, tea, and mushrooms — not a cuisine I could picture on a plate. Two hours later, I walked out knowing I’ll be back soon for more.
 
JIJA sits quietly in the lobby of the brand-new Kimpton Hong Kong in Tsim Sha Tsui — though “quietly” refers only to its location, not its mood. Inside, the restaurant buzzes in that elegant, confident way that instantly puts you at ease. Natural light pours in through huge windows by day, and by night, the space glows warm and intimate, humming with conversation. It’s a modern bistro energy wrapped in the colours, textures and spirit of Yunnan.

And then there’s the service, led by Romain Herbreteau (also Vicky’s partner). Our waitress, Amber, was the kind of team member every restaurant dreams of — knowledgeable, thoughtful and genuinely passionate about the stories behind each dish. She didn’t just take orders; she guided us, introduced ingredients I’d never come across, and added layers of meaning to everything we tasted.
 
 

The dishes that won me over

Yunnan cuisine is bold — lots of citrus, spice, sour notes, fragrant herbs, and, of course, mushrooms. But what surprised me is how elegant everything felt under Vicky Lau’s vision: rustic flavours, refined execution.
 
Here are the dishes I can’t stop thinking about:
 
Chicken Liver Parfait with Scallion Focaccia
Silky, rich, and smooth — and paired with a warm scallion focaccia that I would happily eat on its own. A perfect opening chapter.
 
Lime Shredded Chicken with Sichuan Peppercorn Oil & Peanuts
A cold dish that hits all the notes at once: citrusy, numbing, crunchy, aromatic. Familiar in spirit, completely new in personality. I could eat this every week.
 
Dai Sou Beef Soup Noodle (my absolute favourite)
Homemade noodles, tender braised beef, fragrant broth, and a tray of condiments so you can customise the bowl to your mood. Comforting yet bright, hearty without being heavy — this is the dish that made Yunnan cuisine click for me. I would go back to JIJA just for this.
 

Beyond my personal favourites, the menu offers an impressive spectrum of flavours from  the Seasonal Mushroom Salad, showcasing Yunnan’s wild mushrooms, to the Yunnan Pork Fat Fried Rice, deeply savoury and homely, and a selection of stir-fried seasonal vegetables. Desserts lean, playful, and elegant, like the Paris–Yunnan choux, a peanut version of the praline-based traditional Paris-Brest.
 
And because Yunnan is the spiritual home of tea, the drinks programme deserves its own spotlight. A dedicated tea station offers beautifully sourced teas served with the reverence of fine wine — brewed tableside, explained with care, and designed to pair with the dishes. The wine list is equally thoughtful, mixing French and international labels with bottles from China’s rising wine regions, including Yunnan itself. 
 
 
A fresh chapter for Vicky Lau
 
JIJA marks a new, more relaxed side of Vicky — one that steps away from fine dining and celebrates warmth, comfort and bold regional flavours, without losing the finesse she’s known for. If (like me) you’ve never explored Yunnan cuisine before, JIJA is the perfect introduction: vibrant, generous, surprising, and delivered with sincerity and care. A beautiful new addition to Hong Kong’s dining scene — and one I’m already planning to revisit.
 
 

15/F, Kimpton Hotel, 11 Middle Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong
https://www.jijarestaurant.com