Hong Kong Madame - English

Samsen takes over Central

The third iteration of Samsen brings signature and new Thai fare to On Lan Street

November 21st 2024


Samsen takes over Central
Words by Aude Camus
 
Alright, let me start with a little disclaimer: this review is entirely subjective and utterly biased. Why? Because I am a Samsen addict through and through. It’s one of the few walk-in-only spots in town where I’ll happily queue, stomach rumbling, knowing the feast ahead will be 100% worth it. I adore Samsen’s vibe, and I really adore Samsen’s food. So much so that when I planned my Koh Samui wedding, I sent photos of their dishes to my wedding planner for inspiration. We even recreated their dreamy coconut ice cream (with peanuts, young coconut, and sweet corn!) for our recovery brunch. Obsessed? You bet.
 
So, when I heard Samsen was opening in Central - just a 10-minute stroll from my place - I was all ears.
Fast forward to a balmy Tuesday evening, and I’m walking into their buzzing new space on On Lan Street.
 
Being invited for a tasting has its perks: no queue for me tonight. But don’t let the walk-in policy scare you off - this Central location is way bigger than their teeny-tiny Wan Chai original and even more spacious than the Sheung Wan outlet. Chances are, you’ll only wait a short while before being seated. And let’s face it, when the food is this good, even a short wait feels like part of the experience.
 
If you’ve visited Samsen before, you’ll instantly recognise the signature shophouse-style vibes. The Central branch stays true to form, with its vibrant decor that feels like a direct portal to the streets of Bangkok. Think tiled floors, walls plastered with retro posters and vintage Thai graphics, hanging plants, and eclectic knick-knacks sourced from Bangkok’s flea markets. The energy? Palpable. It’s loud, it’s busy, it’s fun.
 
And now, for a little plot twist: while Wan Chai and Sheung Wan keep it classic with Thai beers and soft drinks, Central raises the bar with cocktails infused with Thai ingredients, plus wine and Champagne. I had my eye on the Lemongrass & Ginger G&T (HKD 98), but I couldn’t resist the Salted Coconut & Espresso Martini (HKD 108). That salted coconut foam? Dreamy doesn’t even begin to cover it.

 

Samsen takes over Central
On to the main event—food! Samsen classics meet exciting new additions on this menu. Their legendary Signature Boat Noodles (previously exclusive to Wan Chai) are now available here - so no more hours-long queues in Wan Chai just to get your fix. Other must-haves include the fiery Wagyu beef wok-fried with chilli (HKD 158).

 

Samsen takes over Central
But if you’re feeling adventurous, try something new. The crispy baby oyster and spring onion omelette (HKD 188) is delightfully indulgent, while the wok-fried rice with pork and Chinese olive, inspired by Bangkok’s Chinatown, is pure comfort food. You know that feeling when you’re so full, but the food is too good to stop? That’s me at Samsen. And because dessert is a non-negotiable, here’s your order: the pandan and coconut dumpling in warm salted coconut cream (HKD 88). It’s a little bowl of joy that you’ll thank me for later.
 
There are plenty of options for vegetarians, too, and they’ve just launched a lunch menu with Samsen Set Lunches priced between HKD 148 and HKD 168 - a steal for food and vibes this good in the heart of Central.
 
The verdict? Do I really need to say it? I loved it, and I’ll be back. Again. And again.
 
 
 
 
Samsen Central
https://www.samsen-hk.com/
18 On Lan Street, Central
 


 
This article is based on a complimentary dinner tasting hosted by Samsen Central. No money has been paid to publish this review which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.














 


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