Interview by Aude Camus
As Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred institutions Caprice and Amber turn 20 this year (2025), there’s another fine-dining landmark that continues to shape the city’s dining scene — Petrus . Since opening in 1991, it has been celebrated as one of Hong Kong’s most iconic dining rooms, pairing sweeping Victoria Harbour views with a legendary wine cellar (complete with vintages of Château Pétrus dating back nearly a century), refined French cuisine and a Parisian salon-inspired décor.
As Hong Kong’s Michelin-starred institutions Caprice and Amber turn 20 this year (2025), there’s another fine-dining landmark that continues to shape the city’s dining scene — Petrus . Since opening in 1991, it has been celebrated as one of Hong Kong’s most iconic dining rooms, pairing sweeping Victoria Harbour views with a legendary wine cellar (complete with vintages of Château Pétrus dating back nearly a century), refined French cuisine and a Parisian salon-inspired décor.
But even the most storied institutions need a shake-up from time to time. That’s where Chef Uwe Opocensky comes in. Appointed Executive Chef of Island Shangri-La Hong Kong in 2019, he has been carefully balancing respect for Petrus’ heritage with his passion for reinvention. As the team gears up for the next stage of transformation — a much-anticipated renovation — I sat down with Chef Uwe to chat about his journey, culinary philosophy, and what’s next for one of Hong Kong’s most iconic dining rooms.
You trained and started your career in Europe. Did those early years shape you as a chef and how?
You trained and started your career in Europe. Did those early years shape you as a chef and how?
Of course, everything you do along the way shapes you. I did my apprenticeship in Germany, then competitions that led me to Anton Mosimann’s legendary private dining club in London, where I spent nine years. It was an incredible time — by 22 I was already head chef, running outside catering and cooking at places like the White House and Downing Street. I was exposed to amazing experiences very early.
At the same time, I stayed curious — I went to work briefly with chef Alain Ducasse, later at El Bulli in Spain (editor’s note: closed in 2011, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant was renowned for its modernist cuisine and crowned No.1 in the inaugural list of The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2002). Each step wasn’t about collecting CV points, but about learning and seeing different approaches. All of that influences the way I cook today.
What first brought you to Hong Kong in 2004?
I always wanted to come to Asia. Everyone talked about the hospitality here — Thailand, Japan, Hong Kong — so I applied in different places, but often heard, “you’re too experienced but don’t have Asian experience.” Then, just before starting a job in Moscow, I got a call about an executive chef role at a private members’ club in Hong Kong. I’d never been here before, but I thought, why not? I came, got the job — and 21 years later, I’m still here! Like many of us, I thought I’d stay two or three years. But Hong Kong has a way of keeping you.
You’ve helmed some of the city’s most iconic kitchens — Mandarin Oriental, your own restaurant, and now Island Shangri-La. What made you take the Petrus role?
After Mandarin, I opened my own place on Hollywood Road and worked with a burger chain to develop some concepts. It was fun and different. I wanted to experience having my own place, and at first it went really well — until the social protests came. At the same time I also realised I missed the scale and diversity of hotels — room service, banquets, fine dining, all under one roof.
I interviewed with a few hotels actually but when Shangri-La called, it felt right. I’ve always had a good relationship with them, and I joined at the perfect time — just as the hotel began its transformation.
Petrus quickly earned back its Michelin star after you joined. Was that expected?
Honestly, no. It was a lovely surprise. This is something I was working towards to when I opened my own restaurant, and we were very close to getting the star so when I moved from my own restaurant to Petrus, I told Michelin: “I’m moving, my team and my DNA are moving too.” They came, tasted, and not long after, we had the star. Of course, you never take it for granted, but it was a wonderful recognition so early on.
You often describe your style as “progressive gastronomy.” What does that mean to you?
At the same time, I stayed curious — I went to work briefly with chef Alain Ducasse, later at El Bulli in Spain (editor’s note: closed in 2011, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant was renowned for its modernist cuisine and crowned No.1 in the inaugural list of The World's 50 Best Restaurants in 2002). Each step wasn’t about collecting CV points, but about learning and seeing different approaches. All of that influences the way I cook today.
What first brought you to Hong Kong in 2004?
I always wanted to come to Asia. Everyone talked about the hospitality here — Thailand, Japan, Hong Kong — so I applied in different places, but often heard, “you’re too experienced but don’t have Asian experience.” Then, just before starting a job in Moscow, I got a call about an executive chef role at a private members’ club in Hong Kong. I’d never been here before, but I thought, why not? I came, got the job — and 21 years later, I’m still here! Like many of us, I thought I’d stay two or three years. But Hong Kong has a way of keeping you.
You’ve helmed some of the city’s most iconic kitchens — Mandarin Oriental, your own restaurant, and now Island Shangri-La. What made you take the Petrus role?
After Mandarin, I opened my own place on Hollywood Road and worked with a burger chain to develop some concepts. It was fun and different. I wanted to experience having my own place, and at first it went really well — until the social protests came. At the same time I also realised I missed the scale and diversity of hotels — room service, banquets, fine dining, all under one roof.
I interviewed with a few hotels actually but when Shangri-La called, it felt right. I’ve always had a good relationship with them, and I joined at the perfect time — just as the hotel began its transformation.
Petrus quickly earned back its Michelin star after you joined. Was that expected?
Honestly, no. It was a lovely surprise. This is something I was working towards to when I opened my own restaurant, and we were very close to getting the star so when I moved from my own restaurant to Petrus, I told Michelin: “I’m moving, my team and my DNA are moving too.” They came, tasted, and not long after, we had the star. Of course, you never take it for granted, but it was a wonderful recognition so early on.
You often describe your style as “progressive gastronomy.” What does that mean to you?
Artichoke: Lavender / Chocolate / Ice Cream
For me, it’s about evolution. Gastronomy carries tradition and heritage — especially at a classic restaurant like Petrus. But progressive means you don’t stand still; you move forward, modernise, lighten things up. It’s not about chasing trends, but about balancing respect for the classics with contemporary presentation and flavours. Think of it like Dior — timeless, but always reinventing itself. That’s the approach I want for Petrus.
You’ve also spoken about creating a “bubble” for diners. What do you mean by that?
You’ve also spoken about creating a “bubble” for diners. What do you mean by that?
Ham & Cheese (Dessert)
Hong Kong is hectic — phones buzzing, constant stress. When you come to Petrus, I want you to step into a different space, even just for two hours. The bubble is about being present — enjoying the food, wine or tea pairings, the company you’re with, the stories behind the dishes. It’s not just food delivery; it’s hospitality. I see it as inviting you into my dining room, hosting you, creating a small oasis in the middle of this city.
Sustainability is also part of your approach. How do you bring that into Petrus?
Sustainability means different things to different people. For me, it’s about supporting artisanal producers — fishermen with small boats, farmers growing heritage vegetables, local mushroom growers, beekeepers. We work with Common Farms in Hong Kong (editor’s note: indoor farm / urban agriculture startup growing produce in Hong Kong), and I’ve been fascinated by Yunnan produce, which I think has huge potential for us. It’s not about being dogmatic; it’s about preserving craft and tradition, and making thoughtful sourcing choices wherever possible.
Petrus is also known for its wine programme, but you’ve introduced alternatives too.
Wine is still central to us — we have an incredible cellar. But we also do a lot with tea, infusions, and natural, non-alcoholic pairings. It’s not about chasing trends but about offering balance. Some guests want the classic wine experience, others prefer a tea journey — both should feel equally considered.
You’ve been in Hong Kong for two decades. Where do you like to eat when you’re not at Petrus?
You know what, I really like Tim Ho Wan. I love simple spots like Kau Kee on Gough Street (Central) for beef brisket noodles, and my daughter keeps me adventurous too — she’s always finding places on TikTok and asking me to try them with her. I’m based in Pok Fu lam so Kennedy Town is kind of our hub — this is where we normally hang out whether it’s for coffee, pastas on Sundays at Pici …
For fine dining, I admire chefs like Antimo (Maria Merone) at Estro — his pastas, his style. Wing is another favourite; I think Vicky (editor’s note: chef Vicky Cheng) has really opened up Chinese cuisine for international diners. And sometimes, honestly, I just want a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine behind the bar at Umberto’s (editor’s note: chef Umberto Bombana of 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana).
Looking ahead, what’s next for Petrus?
Sustainability is also part of your approach. How do you bring that into Petrus?
Sustainability means different things to different people. For me, it’s about supporting artisanal producers — fishermen with small boats, farmers growing heritage vegetables, local mushroom growers, beekeepers. We work with Common Farms in Hong Kong (editor’s note: indoor farm / urban agriculture startup growing produce in Hong Kong), and I’ve been fascinated by Yunnan produce, which I think has huge potential for us. It’s not about being dogmatic; it’s about preserving craft and tradition, and making thoughtful sourcing choices wherever possible.
Petrus is also known for its wine programme, but you’ve introduced alternatives too.
Wine is still central to us — we have an incredible cellar. But we also do a lot with tea, infusions, and natural, non-alcoholic pairings. It’s not about chasing trends but about offering balance. Some guests want the classic wine experience, others prefer a tea journey — both should feel equally considered.
You’ve been in Hong Kong for two decades. Where do you like to eat when you’re not at Petrus?
You know what, I really like Tim Ho Wan. I love simple spots like Kau Kee on Gough Street (Central) for beef brisket noodles, and my daughter keeps me adventurous too — she’s always finding places on TikTok and asking me to try them with her. I’m based in Pok Fu lam so Kennedy Town is kind of our hub — this is where we normally hang out whether it’s for coffee, pastas on Sundays at Pici …
For fine dining, I admire chefs like Antimo (Maria Merone) at Estro — his pastas, his style. Wing is another favourite; I think Vicky (editor’s note: chef Vicky Cheng) has really opened up Chinese cuisine for international diners. And sometimes, honestly, I just want a bowl of pasta and a glass of wine behind the bar at Umberto’s (editor’s note: chef Umberto Bombana of 8 1/2 Otto E Mezzo Bombana).
Looking ahead, what’s next for Petrus?
Lobster Brittany / Beetroot / Elderflower
The big project is renovation. Petrus is steeped in heritage, but it’s time to refresh — like a fashion house keeping its DNA while reinventing itself. We’ll keep the name and the spirit, but make the dining room more contemporary, more relaxed, while staying fine dining at heart. I want it to be a place you come not just once a year for an anniversary, but every month — somewhere refined but also fun, approachable, not stiff. Fine dining has changed, and Petrus will evolve with it.
Finally — everyone takes photos of their food these days. Do you mind?
Not at all! If it makes you happy, take photos. For me, it means you like what you see. I don’t judge how guests enjoy themselves — whether it’s mustard with steak or snapping every dish. Hospitality is about giving you a good time. If you leave happy, that’s what matters.
Chef Uwe is a rare mix — deeply rooted in classical training yet relentlessly curious, passionate about heritage yet unafraid of reinvention. As Petrus enters its next chapter, his vision is clear: fine dining that feels both iconic and modern, indulgent yet relaxed. One thing’s certain — the bubble he creates at Petrus is one you’ll want to step into again and again.
Finally — everyone takes photos of their food these days. Do you mind?
Not at all! If it makes you happy, take photos. For me, it means you like what you see. I don’t judge how guests enjoy themselves — whether it’s mustard with steak or snapping every dish. Hospitality is about giving you a good time. If you leave happy, that’s what matters.
Chef Uwe is a rare mix — deeply rooted in classical training yet relentlessly curious, passionate about heritage yet unafraid of reinvention. As Petrus enters its next chapter, his vision is clear: fine dining that feels both iconic and modern, indulgent yet relaxed. One thing’s certain — the bubble he creates at Petrus is one you’ll want to step into again and again.
