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Feuille: forward-thinking French fine-dining with a vegetal twist

November 24th 2023


Feuille: forward-thinking French fine-dining with a vegetal twist
by Aude Camus
 
Having opened its doors earlier this year, Feuille is the latest venue by ZS Hospitality. The award-winning local restaurant group has made it a signature to collaborate with celebrated chefs from around the globe, bringing their creativity to Hong Kong and therefore exploring new culinary possibilities while redefining traditional cuisines. I recently loved my visit to Testina, their offal-focused Italian restaurant in partnership with cult Milanese establishment Trippa Milano, and previously had beautiful dining experiences at Whey, where Singaporean chef Barry Quek presents modern interpretations of classic dishes from his home city, and Hansik Goo, in partnership with acclaimed Korean chef Mingoo Kang. Needless to say, I was eager to discover their latest addition, especially because your girl can’t resist French cuisine.
 
 
 
The Chefs
 
Feuille showcases the innovative vision of French chef David Toutain. Hailing from the picturesque south of Normandy, David Toutain's culinary journey began amidst the crudités of his grandparents' farm. His trajectory led him to the kitchens of culinary luminaries like Alain Passard, Pierre Gagnaire, and Bernard Pacaud, ultimately shaping his bold culinary philosophy alongside Marc Veyrat. In 2014, Toutain's eponymous Paris restaurant garnered international acclaim with two Michelin stars, setting the stage for his Hong Kong venture. With a Green Star in tow for his commitment to biodiversity, Toutain brings his reverence for nature to Feuille, crafting a vegetable-driven menu that pays homage to local ingredients and sustainable practices.
 
Complementing Toutain's expertise is Executive Chef Joris Rousseau, a maestro in his own right. Trained alongside Yannick Alléno, Rousseau's culinary journey took him from Cheval Blanc Courchevel to the iconic Pavillon Ledoyen, earning three Michelin stars along the way. At Feuille, Rousseau brings his depth of knowledge in French cuisine, ensuring each dish is a masterpiece of flavour and technique.
 
 
 
The Food

Feuille's culinary odyssey is a celebration of pure flavours and innovative approaches to French cuisine Chef Toutain's commitment to sustainable practices and ethical sourcing is reflected in the menu. From locally sourced organic products to sustainably farmed meat and seafood, every dish is a testament to his respect for the environment and local farmers. Vegetables take center stage, revealing intricate layers and clean flavours.
 


What I ate  
 
These are selected highlights from the 12-course “Menu Terroir” priced at 1,599 HKD per person

Feuille: forward-thinking French fine-dining with a vegetal twist
I loved this refined interpretation of a traditional favourite. Here the tender frog meat is enhanced by the aromatic kick of Madras curry. The marriage of flavours is both subtle and powerful. The result is a very contemporary dish with a nostalgic feel to it.  
 
 
Feuille Bread – Dill Pil Pil
 
No proper French fine dining experience is complete without bread, and Feuille's homemade creation exceeds expectations. Served as a dedicated course, the bread boasts a delicate, cloud-like interior encased in a perfect crust. In alignment with Chef Toutain's zero-waste philosophy, the bread is accompanied by a vibrant green dill pil-pil sauce, crafted from collagen extracted from unused fishbones.


 

Feuille: forward-thinking French fine-dining with a vegetal twist
Cumin - Egg – Sweetcorn
 
Experience Chef David Toutain's signature dish in its Hong Kong manifestation. Locally sourced baby corn takes the stage, creating a nostalgic and comforting egg custard dish. Balancing familiarity with innovation, this rendition captures the essence of Chef Toutain's culinary expertise—nostalgia on the plate, without the heaviness.


 

Feuille: forward-thinking French fine-dining with a vegetal twist
Daikon – Blue Crab – Kombu
 
A reinvention of the traditional French crab with mayonnaise, this dish introduces an infusion of Asian flavours and herbaceous freshness. The homemade mayo, enriched with coriander, parsley, and basil, complements the succulent blue crab. Daikon adds an extra layer of freshness and crunch, while a pour of kombu seaweed bouillon enhances the umami factor. What’s more, addictive little crab beignets accompany the dish – served on the side to dip in the bouillon (and god knows I obliged).
 
 
 
Pumpkin – Spiny Lobster – Saffron
 
This dish is a sensorial delight that captivates the senses even before the first bite. The enticing and the irresistibly appetising look of the spiny lobster skewer promises a feast and you’re not disappointed. The richness of pumpkin and the delicate essence of saffron further add to the different layers of flavours.
 
 
Feuille
https://www.feuille.hk/
5/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central

 
 


 
This article is based on a complimentary media tasting hosted by Feuille. Not money has been paid to post this write-up which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author. 







 
 


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