Words by Aude Camus
There are a few Hong Kong institutions I keep returning to — and Duddell’s is one of them. Whether it’s for its indulgent weekend brunches or a relaxed dinner upstairs (oh and in the infamous, but now gone Disco Bao parties), it’s always been a place that feels both refined and familiar. After closing for a month-long renovation, Duddell’s has just reopened its doors, and let’s just say it’s looking better than ever.
This isn’t just a fresh coat of paint. The redesign, led by André Fu Studio, reimagines Duddell’s as a contemporary art collector’s maison — elegant yet playful, grounded in heritage but unmistakably modern. Inspired by Lingnan culture (or Cantonese culture) and the early 20th-century Diao Lou watchtowers of Guangdong, the new interiors weave together East and West with a distinctly Hong Kong sensibility. Think pistachio green and mineral blue tones, terrazzo floors, stained oak, and handcrafted glass screens that feel both nostalgic and new.
Two floors, two moods
There are a few Hong Kong institutions I keep returning to — and Duddell’s is one of them. Whether it’s for its indulgent weekend brunches or a relaxed dinner upstairs (oh and in the infamous, but now gone Disco Bao parties), it’s always been a place that feels both refined and familiar. After closing for a month-long renovation, Duddell’s has just reopened its doors, and let’s just say it’s looking better than ever.
This isn’t just a fresh coat of paint. The redesign, led by André Fu Studio, reimagines Duddell’s as a contemporary art collector’s maison — elegant yet playful, grounded in heritage but unmistakably modern. Inspired by Lingnan culture (or Cantonese culture) and the early 20th-century Diao Lou watchtowers of Guangdong, the new interiors weave together East and West with a distinctly Hong Kong sensibility. Think pistachio green and mineral blue tones, terrazzo floors, stained oak, and handcrafted glass screens that feel both nostalgic and new.
Two floors, two moods
The third floor remains the heart of Duddell’s — a MICHELIN-starred dining room where Chef Chan Yau Leung presents elevated Cantonese classics. The menu honours craftsmanship and patience: sautéed prawn with chicken essence, crispy stuffed crab shell, and the legendary braised abalone with goose palm are all a reminder of what makes traditional Cantonese cuisine so enduring.
But this time, I headed straight upstairs to the fourth floor’s Upper Room, where the vibe is more casual — and honestly, more my style. It’s an all-day, all-night space where dim sum meets small plates and cocktails flow freely from lunch till late. You can sit indoors amid warm, lounge-like interiors or out on that iconic terrace (one of Central’s best, in my opinion).
Dim sum, comfort, and a touch of nostalgia
I opted for the Evening Set Menu, which at HK$358+10% per person (minimum two guests) feels like excellent value. The dim sum trio was a standout — the steamed pork and shrimp dumpling with scallop and fish roe and steamed cabbage dumpling with fungus were perfectly balanced, while the baked barbecue pork bun hit that satisfying sweet-savoury note I can never resist.
The soft scrambled egg with prawn was another highlight, a silky, comforting dish that perfectly captured Cantonese simplicity at its best. I wrapped up with the mango sago cream with pomelo, fresh and light — exactly what you want to finish on after such a flavourful meal.
Dim sum, comfort, and a touch of nostalgia
I opted for the Evening Set Menu, which at HK$358+10% per person (minimum two guests) feels like excellent value. The dim sum trio was a standout — the steamed pork and shrimp dumpling with scallop and fish roe and steamed cabbage dumpling with fungus were perfectly balanced, while the baked barbecue pork bun hit that satisfying sweet-savoury note I can never resist.
The soft scrambled egg with prawn was another highlight, a silky, comforting dish that perfectly captured Cantonese simplicity at its best. I wrapped up with the mango sago cream with pomelo, fresh and light — exactly what you want to finish on after such a flavourful meal.
As part of the tasting, I was also lucky to try a few dishes off the à la carte menu: the roasted goose pie with plum sauce (rich, flaky, and wonderfully inventive) and the sautéed chicken with black beans and dried shallots in claypot, which arrived sizzling and fragrant — the kind of dish that fills the room before it even hits the table.
Cocktails that move with energy and intention
Cocktails that move with energy and intention
Another reason to linger? The new cocktail programme by Mario Calderone, JIA Group’s Group Beverage Manager. The concept is inspired by the Ba Gua (八卦), the ancient Feng Shui map of life’s energies — with each drink representing an intention like joy, flow, or creativity. My personal favourite: Fire, a vodka-based cocktail with ginger liqueur, ginseng honey and egg white — fresh yet indulgent at the same time.
The drinks, priced at HK$138 each, are thoughtful without being fussy, and there’s even a zero-proof collection for when you want all the flavour with none of the buzz. I also tried, and loved, the osmanthus sparkling tea —an exclusive Saicho’s creation just for Duddell’s.
A refreshed classic worth revisiting
What I love most about the new Duddell’s is that it hasn’t lost its soul. The art, the heritage, the sense of being somewhere effortlessly elegant — it’s all still there, but reinterpreted for today. Whether you’re here for the fine-dining experience downstairs or the more playful energy of The Upper Room upstairs, this new chapter feels like a love letter to what makes Hong Kong’s dining scene so unique: a perfect harmony of past and present.
As for me, I’ll be back soon — probably for another round of dim sum on the terrace, a cocktail in hand, and that same familiar feeling that Duddell’s has always had: timeless, yet forever in motion.
Duddell’s
Level 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central
https://www.duddells.co
The drinks, priced at HK$138 each, are thoughtful without being fussy, and there’s even a zero-proof collection for when you want all the flavour with none of the buzz. I also tried, and loved, the osmanthus sparkling tea —an exclusive Saicho’s creation just for Duddell’s.
A refreshed classic worth revisiting
What I love most about the new Duddell’s is that it hasn’t lost its soul. The art, the heritage, the sense of being somewhere effortlessly elegant — it’s all still there, but reinterpreted for today. Whether you’re here for the fine-dining experience downstairs or the more playful energy of The Upper Room upstairs, this new chapter feels like a love letter to what makes Hong Kong’s dining scene so unique: a perfect harmony of past and present.
As for me, I’ll be back soon — probably for another round of dim sum on the terrace, a cocktail in hand, and that same familiar feeling that Duddell’s has always had: timeless, yet forever in motion.
Duddell’s
Level 3 & 4, Shanghai Tang Mansion, 1 Duddell Street, Central
https://www.duddells.co
This article is based on a complimentary dinner - hosted by Duddell's. No money has been paid to publish this review which is entirely based on the genuine opinion of its author.