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   <title>Louise, nostalgic French cuisine with a modern flair</title>
   <updated>2019-07-25T09:26:00+02:00</updated>
   <id>https://www.hongkongmadame.com/en/Louise-nostalgic-French-cuisine-with-a-modern-flair_a2034.html</id>
   <category term="Eat &amp; Drink" />
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   <published>2019-07-26T00:00:00+02:00</published>
   <author><name>Hong Kong Madame</name></author>
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp; <br />  <strong>by Aude Camus&nbsp;</strong> <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Over the past few months, Hong Kong has been buzzing with the news of the yummy collaboration between Michelin Star chef Julien Royer, recently awarded with the 1<sup>st</sup>position in “Asia’s 50 Best” with his Singapore restaurant Odette, and serial food entrepreneur, and founder of JIA Group, Yenn Wong. Louise recently opened its doors at PMQ and I had to give it a go, right?&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Who’s in the mood for a nostalgic culinary trip to France?&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  First, I have to say I’m completely obsessed with the design of the place.</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">Nothing surprising knowing that the transformation of this heritage building into a chic yet intimate and welcoming home has been handled by acclaimed architect Andre Fu (<a class="link" href="https://www.hongkongmadame.com/en/A-sneak-peek-at-The-St-Regis-Hong-Kong_a1986.html" target="_blank">who’s been busy lately also working on the incredibly beautiful St. Regis Hong Kong which design I can’t get over</a>).&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Each room has its very unique atmosphere. You first enter the place through a Tropical Greenhouse Lounge where you can enjoy drinks and casual all-day dining (meaning Pâté en Croûte, French Cold-Cut and Cheese … God I love being French).&nbsp;</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">Could have easily stopped my visit here, just eating pâté en croûte but had to behave and carry-on with discovering the place.&nbsp;</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">Be sure to have a quick look at the Drawing Room before heading upstairs, I’m loving the tropical/colonial chic vibes of this room which would be perfect for private functions. And now, let’s meet upstairs in the main dining room as I cannot wait to give a go to Executive Chef Franckelie Laloum’s cuisine.&nbsp;</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">I am loving everything about this room: the incredible natural light gracing it, the chic colonial home atmosphere, the open kitchen, the elegant crowd … I do love a touch of old-school chic on a weekday lunch! Oh and here is chef Franckelie, stopping at some tables, welcoming its guests and making sure everything is going well. Hostess with the mostest!&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  The menu is seasonal, featuring ingredients sourced by chefs Julien and Franckelie, aiming at bringing the best of French cuisine to their guests but with a modern twist. Louise isn’t about fine dining but it’s not either a casual and cheap bistro, it’s right in the middle: honest familial French cuisine which can be enjoyed every day but using the freshest ingredients and cooking techniques from fine dining restaurants. Isn’t it mouthwatering? Let’s have a look at this lunch menu.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Feedbacks I’ve heard about the restaurant before giving it a go are that it’s pretty pricey. And it’s true, it is. But I am one of those persons who would happily spend money on great food, great atmosphere, great service and friendly chef. And the set lunch menu we are checking out today is still affordable if you feel like treating yourself to an indulgent lunch: HKD 398 for 2 courses (starter + main OR main + dessert) and HKD 478 for 3 courses (starter + main + desert).&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Something I love about this lunch menu is that all the dishes (3 starters, 3 mains, 3 desserts) are dishes from the à la carte menu. I hate it when a restaurant creates special set lunch dishes, it makes me feel like I’m being given lower quality. I like to think of a set lunch as a mise-en-bouche, a test for me to get an idea of what the chef is cooking and decide whether or not I want to come back for more and book myself in for dinner.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Speaking of mise-en-bouche, here comes a little something. A fresh nibble before our appetizers.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Of course, I had to go for the&nbsp;<strong>Oeuf fumé</strong>, inspired by Odette signature dish. I loved everything about this dish: its look, its mouthwatering smell and the combination of smoked organic egg with potato foam and chorizo making it very comforting yet quite airy at the same time.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  My main dish was no less exciting than my starter:&nbsp;<strong>Line-caught cod with coco beans, chorizo, piquillos and mint.&nbsp;</strong></div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">God this is tasty! Loved the melty texture of the fish with the super fresh and firm coco beans and the summery taste of the broth. I first started my lunch with the strong will that I would not touch the bread (1. Because I need to cut on carbs 2. Because I always end-up stuffing myself with beand and being too full to fully enjoy my meal till the end) but I had to surrender and take a piece of bread making sure to properly moping the sauce from my plate and not leaving a single bit of it.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Do I still have room for dessert? You bet I do! I’ve been eying at the&nbsp;<strong>“Mama Royer” yogurt cake and ice cream with confit lemon&nbsp;</strong>since it was served to my neighbors 15 min ago and I’ve been dying to give it a go. Seems like the ultimate regressive treat! I used to love yogurt cake when I was a kid. And it is indeed very regressive, so simple yet so yummy.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  Well, that was an utterly yummy trip back to France!&nbsp;</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">Thanks for that chef Franckelie! Do you mind if I just still a few minutes of your precious time, just to ask you a few yummy questions?&nbsp;&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />   <br />   <br />  <strong>Correct me if I’m wrong but I believe you’ve been in Asia for quite a long time already. How did you first meet chef Julien and how did you get on board the exciting Louise adventure?</strong></div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">Correct! I’ve been here in Asia for nearly 10 years from Shanghai to Tokyo and now Hong Kong. I first met Julien, in 2013, in Singapore where we were both attending the first Asia’s 50 Best ceremony. We’ve been getting along pretty well and we both worked together on an Asia’s 50 Best promotion in Australia. We’ve been pretty good friends since them. I first arrived in Hong Kong few months ago, following my wife who got promoted here, and Julien reached out to me with this project.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />   <br />  <strong>You were previously in charge of all the Western dining outlets of the Ritz-Carlton Tokyo, including a Michelin Star restaurant. Odette in Singapore has two Michelin Stars and is, this year, number 1 Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant. Does it put any pressure on Louise? Are you aiming for the stars here?&nbsp;</strong> <br />  There’s no pressure because we are not necessary going for Michelin Stars. What we are trying to do here is to redefine the codes of fine dining by welcoming people in our house and serving them authentic food. Today, people are less and less keen to spend hours at the table, so we are bringing them fine dining ingredients but in a more casual atmosphere.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />   <br />  <strong>The design of the restaurant, the plating of the dish … Louise is a very Instagram friendly place. You’ve been in this industry for many years now, has your job changed with the rise of social media?&nbsp;</strong> <br />  Definitely. I do think that today, if you are a chef, you need to be on social media. You have to have an Instagram account. My job is now trendy, the FnB industry is now trendy, which I am really happy about, but it also means you have to master your image and your communication. It is also super important to connect with your customers, check what they are saying about your restaurants.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />   <br />  <strong>One dish that you are particularly happy to have on the menu?&nbsp;</strong> <br />  I guess it would have to be the Roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken with niigata rice (<em>editor’s note: dish to share between 4 people</em>).</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;">First because we were not expecting it to be such a hit. Then because roasted chicken is the ultimate French Sunday dish and we really wanted to bring French authenticity. Also, because this chicken is the perfect mix of my different experiences: it’s a French traditional recipe made with a Hong Kong chicken and served, not with the traditional French potatoes but with, Japanese rice. This dish is so yummy yet so simple.&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />  <em><a class="link" href="http://www.louise.hk/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI2oL0_vzO4wIVFz5gCh1beQfyEAAYASAAEgJ5HvD_BwE" target="_blank">Louise</a>  <br />  35 Aberdeen Street – Central&nbsp; <br />  &nbsp;</em> <br />  &nbsp; <br />  &nbsp;</div>    <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color:#ff99cc;"><strong><em>This write-up is based on a complementary lunch offered by Louise. No money has been paid by Louise for publishing this feature.&nbsp;</em></strong></span></div>    <div style="text-align: center;"><span style="color:#ff99cc;">&nbsp;</span></div>  &nbsp; <br />  &nbsp; <br />   <br />   <br />   <br />   <br />   <br />   <br />   <br />  &nbsp;
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  <entry>
   <title>ÉCRITURE</title>
   <updated>2023-10-09T05:43:00+02:00</updated>
   <id>https://www.hongkongmadame.com/en/ECRITURE_a1824.html</id>
   <category term="Eat &amp; Drink" />
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   <published>2018-05-18T01:00:00+02:00</published>
   <author><name>Hong Kong Madame</name></author>
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      <div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="color:#ff99cc;"><em><strong>Oct 2023 edit: this restaurant has now closed its doors permanently</strong></em></span> <br />   <br />   <br />   <br />  <strong>by Aude</strong> <br />  &nbsp; <br />  The rumor has it that newly opened H Queen’s is THE cultural and gastronomic decision of Hong Kong. A rumor that I definitely needed to double-check! And you know me, of course I chose to check the gastronomic part of it first. May I request the pleasure of having you for dinner with me at <a class="link" href="file:///C:/Users/membership/Documents/ecriture.hk" target="_blank">ÉCRITURE</a>  ? <br />  &nbsp;</div>  
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       <br />  <a class="link" href="file:///C:/Users/membership/Documents/ecriture.hk" target="_blank">ÉCRITURE</a>  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;… quite an intriguing name. The restaurant is actually build on the principles of Western craftsmanship in harmony with Eastern philosophies, inviting you on a sensory and gastronomic voyage.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">As soon as you step off the elevator, the sensory journey can start. Look at that amazing and massive 4.5 m high bookshelf featuring art pieces and limited edition art books … It almost feels like entering someone’s home. And now please follow me into the dining room with its amazing view on the surrounding buildings, its beautiful open kitchen (I got that thing with open kitchens) and its interior that looks like no other, mixing the contrasts to create harmony.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <a class="link" href="file:///C:/Users/membership/Documents/ecriture.hk" target="_blank">ÉCRITURE</a>  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;is also the name of a series of painting by Korean artist Park Seo-Bo and one of the piece from this series hang in the private dining room.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">East meets West at its best!</span> <br />  &nbsp;
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      <div style="text-align: justify;"> <br />  <span style="text-align: justify;">The menu also is a beautiful mix of the best from West and the best from East, using the finest ingredients from France and Japan. I won’t be telling you too much as this menu is truly an experience that I don’t wanna spoil. Anyway the menu evolves constantly and what we’ll be eating tonight is not the same at what they’ll be eating next week. The menu is written like a beautiful story and you’ll love having your waiter guide you through the super yummy 7 chapters of the tasting menu. What I loved the most about this menu? Being surprised with absolutely each and every dish! Not gonna say too much but on my side I was treated to an amazing Hokkaido Scallop and Black Truffles in a crispy beignet and a surprising Kinki fish served in 3 delicious ways.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  &nbsp;</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;"> <br />  <span style="text-align: justify;">Ok, there’s one surprise I’m gonna spoil … sorry about that but the half-Breton in me just absolutely loved to be treated to Kouign-Aman (a super buttery cake, originated from Brittany – West of France)&nbsp; after dessert. Yes yes, they do serve a buttery cake (with whipped cream) after dessert. Just in case you were afraid fine dining diner means small portions, be reassured …</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">After such as feast, I definitely needed to seat a few minutes with Chef Maxime Gilbert and ask him a few foodie questions (any excuse to stay a little longer in this beautiful place and enjoy a few more mignardises).</span> <br />  &nbsp;</div>  
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      <div style="text-align: justify;"> <br />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">Hi Maxime! So nice to meet you!&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">Would love to know a little more about you. Where were you before and how did you become Executive Chef here at ÉCRITURE?&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">I’m French obviously! I started my career in the USA and then joined the team at the Meurice Paris. I spend 5 years there, growing from commis chef to sous chef and encountering my mentor Yannick Alleno.&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">Following a stint at Two Michelin-starred La Reserve de Beaulieu on France’s Cote d’Azure, I went to work with Alleno at La Grande Francaise by Yannick Alleno at the Hotel Royal Mansour in Marrakesh, Morocco. And in 2011, I was so lucky that Yannick Alleno gave me the opportunity to open STAY by Yannick Alleno at Shangri-La Beijing. I then worked as Chef de Cuisine at Amber from 2013 to 2016 when I started working on the opening of ÉCRITURE.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">I don’t wanna say too much about it as I want the readers to be surprised (just like I was) but dining at ÉCRITURE is like going through the different chapters of a beautiful stories. How have you come to this idea?&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">I basically designed the experience and the menu based on my own feelings. What is the kind of experience I’d like to have in a restaurant and which kind of food would I love to eat?</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">Sweet or Savoury?&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">Savoury for sure! I love nothing more than bread.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">Your fav dish?&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">Bread, salted butter and ham … bam!</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">Or maybe my mother’s Boeuf Bourguignon.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">A dish that you hate?&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">I hate it when things are cooked with the wrong intentions. I love nothing more than something simple but cooked with a lot of love.</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <strong style="text-align: justify;">Someone you’ll be dreaming of cooking for?&nbsp;</strong><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">That’s hard! So many people I’d love to cook for … but maybe Alain Passard (editor’s note: French Chef and owner of Three-Michelin-Star restaurant L’Arpege in Paris)</span><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <span style="text-align: justify;">&nbsp;</span> <br />   <br />  <br style="text-align: justify;" />  <em style="text-align: justify;"><a class="link" href="file:///C:/Users/membership/Documents/ecriture.hk">ÉCRITURE</a>  <br />  26/F H Queens, 80 Queens Road – Central</em><br style="text-align: justify;" />  <br style="text-align: justify;" />   <br />   <br />  &nbsp;</div>  
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